Dining among the roses: Restauracja Polska "Różana"

At Różana, the garden of this gorgeous pre-war villa on a quiet Mokotów street is just the thing for fine summer dining. Its Empire-style decor, dozens of marvellously-colored floral bouquets and candles brightening every corner is enough to ease the troubled mind. Indeed, when I arrived at Różana that evening, I had endured quite a trying day at the office. Within minutes, however, all my worries melted away.

My friends and I were seated in the garden - it was a perfectly temperate evening, with dusk slowly descending. As we oohed and aahed over every detail, our waiter approached. Now, Britain has her Mr. Darcy but it turns out we've got our very own dapper gent to boast of - Mr. Adam Pawłowski, our waiter that evening and a man who proved himself the most courteous and charming man to be found for miles around. Mr. Pawłowski deftly recommended a fine bottle of chilled Pouilly-Fuissé to start and we soon got to ordering one of our favourite treats - the tartar. I opted for the pink salmon (zł.44), while my friends went in for the kill with a crimson beef tenderloin (zł.37). The dishes come with all the condiments on the side, so you can concoct your own blend of seasonings.

Alas, after finishing the tartar, we found ourselves stuck because it's obvious that everything on the menu at Różana is brilliant. Finally, we settled on the chanterelles (zł.38) and crepes (zł.49). Heaven.

We'd just about polished off the wine at that point but Mr. Pawłowski was right there to provide succor with a half-size bottle of decadent Chablis. Three hours later, we had consumed the most delicious farmhouse duck (zł.54), Polish-style stuffed chicken (zł.43) and (drum roll please) deer saddle fillet (zł.79). Each dish cooked to perfection and unbelievably tender. We stared down at our empty plates in pity until we remembered the ever-important matter of dessert and cheered up right away.

The orange and almond pavlova layer cake (zł.22), it must be said, is sinfully good.

It was practically midnight by the time we managed to pry ourselves away from our table but we'll be back because Różana could easily become an obsession.

Restauracja Polska "Różana"
ul. Chocimska 7,
tel. 022 848-1225.
Open daily 12:00-24:00