Eating Out: Gar Restaurant

I admit, the first time I walked by Gar, I was a bit intimidated by the fancy decor. Despite appearances though, it's not all that stuffy and a recent run-in with Magda Gessler proved that the combination of majestic interiors and a cuisine inspired by home-cooked traditional European fare makes Gar a winner.

Its reputation for drinks aside, I really didn't know what to expect from Gar in terms of sustenance. The day I made plans for dinner at Gar with friends, I was starving and, as usual, nervous I wouldn't find anything on the menu that would fill me up. As a vegetarian, my face fell when the whole table ordered the tatar (which comes in either Polish or French version, zł.32 or zł.42). But my misfortune was eased by the fact that Gar serves a vegetarian tatar, based on sun-dried tomatoes and an array of spices (zł.39). A delightful surprise.

Mood lifted, I went on to order the baby spinach salad with Roquefort cheese and walnuts, drizzled with champagne dressing (zł.34) - it was absolutely divine and my friend seemed just as pleased with her chicken Caesar salad (zł.35). For our main entrees, my companion had the manly goose and lamb cassoulet with white beans, thyme, rosemary and white sausage (zł.58) while I opted for the delicious vegetable bouillabaisse, served with goat cheese bruschetta (zł.41).

Everything was delicious, but the most enchanting part of the whole thing was that each main was served in a pot - which brings us back to what Gar is all about - home-cooked food served like mom or grandma made. In other words, straight from the pot - which is what Gar means. The menu is a blend of French and Polish specialties, some of which might be a bit too contrived for some - such as the foie gras parfait served on a madeira and quince compote - but the more familiar dishes are either light and fresh or rich and comforting.

I've been back to Gar in the meantime with the aim of sampling the garden menu. The tomato, mozzarella and rocket salad (zł.19) is just right for a healthy mid-day meal, while the grilled beef tenderloin and rocket salad gives a bit more of a meaty punch for those who crave more from a salad than just greens (zł.36).

The desserts are no joke either - I adore the cranberry kissel (which is something like a jelly but with a softer consistency) and the Cointreau créme brulée (both zł.22). While Gar might seem a bit too good to be true, it's definitely worth a visit any time of day or evening.