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Fresher, livelier wines

Don't be surprised - or upset - if some day soon the bottle of wine you order in a restaurant has a screwtop, rather than the traditional cork stopper.
Screwtops? Yes, in a change that is as revolutionary as the switch from wax and other closures to cork a couple of centuries ago, many of the world's leading wine producers are in the process of switching from cork to screwtop closures.
Within a decade or so, probably half the wine sold in the world will be closed with screwtops. This will include some of the very best wines from France, Italy and Spain - where tradition is a heavier burden than it is for many producers from the New World who, needless to say, are at the forefront of this revolution.
Already you'll find excellent wines such as Kumeu River Chardonnay from New Zealand (zł. 300 plus per bottle - restaurant price), which has a screwtop, but is frequently and favorably compared to the very best Montrachet and enjoys a regular spot in many lists of the world's top 100 wines.
Already two such well-known producers as Miguel Torres from Spain and Georges Dubouef of France have started using screwtops instead of cork.
The revolution is not about economics, since good screwtops are more expensive than corks. Its about delivering wine to customers that is fresher, livelier and, perhaps most importantly of all, not subject to the cork taint from tichloranisole - which renders undrinkable an astonishing two to five per cent of all wines closed with corks.
Which other industry, one has to ask, could have marketed a product for so long, fully aware that up to five percent of the goods sold were spoiled?
Corks may look pretty and they do make a very satisfying sound when they are pulled out of the bottle. But their sole purpose is to keep the bottle airtight since oxygen spoils wines. Screwtops, extensive research has shown, do the job even better and there is fairly universal acceptance in the wine world that white wines in particular are fresher, livelier and more interesting with screwcaps than those closed with corks.
Some traditionalists argue that cork allows a wine to "breathe" and that over a long period of time this "breathing" helps improve the flavour of the wine.
But more than 95 per cent of the wine sold in the world is drunk within a couple of years of being bottled and, moreover, is made especially to be perfect for drinking within this period. It doesn't need to "breathe" in the bottle.
Still not convinced? Then just give it a try the next time you are offered a quality wine with a screwtop. You'll taste the difference. Promise.
Like to learn more about wine?

Then join John Borrell at the Warsaw Business Journal's next Winter Wine Masterclass at the Boathouse Restaurant in Warsaw on Saturday, November 29 at 1.00 pm. The price of the seminar, course notes, tutored tasting and lunch is zł. 95 per person. It's a great way to spend a cold winter's afternoon. Call the Boathouse on 616 3222 or Wine Express on 058-6840790 to reserve your place.

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