Review of restaurant Pink Lobster, Warsaw

The Chef

If chef / co-owner Jarek Walczyk looks familiar, then yes, he ruddy well should. Highly decorated, some of his more recent accolades have included scooping the title of Culinary Personality in 2016 and Chef of the Year in 2015 (both courtesy of Poland’s 100 Best Restaurants). Now, for the first time, this well-regarded chef finds himself fronting his own restaurant, a place whose concept, menu and ambiance aims to ‘de-formalize’ fine dining.

The Menu
An upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, the flawless presentation is reflective of a kitchen that values both clarity and creativity. The sea bass ceviche is an example of this, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a contemporary work of sculpture. And then there’s the octopus, a sexy coil of sea monster given a glorious vibrancy thanks to a preceding beetroot bath. Orange sauce, blobs of mango and a flush of greens complete the combination.

We’d Return For…
Modestly named ‘Cream’, this soup comes ceremoniously poured table-side by a serious, white-gloved waiter. Featuring tomatoes, red curry, shrimp and coconut milk, it’s a gentle whirl of delicate, nuanced tastes – there’s even a light snap of spice to keep the attention.

We Loved…
Pass our apologies to Bambi’s nearest and, erm, dearest, but the roe deer is immaculate: served with herb moss, black salsify, morel and demi-glace, the meat is lean and tender and comes the right hint of pink.

And Don’t Miss
The plan had been to share one between two. But then we ordered another and another after that. Whoever is doing desserts deserves a big hand for these are stunning pieces of work that warrant recognition. Creme Anglaise disappears into a thick, sweet swirl of chocolatey goo, while the ‘apple’ cracks open to disgorge a variety of contents you never expected: salty caramel, cool cream and a baked apple inside. Even the basil sorbet is a brilliant arrangement of multi-layered tastes.

Good To Know
Of course they do already do lobster, but they’re about to get a whole lot more serious with the forthcoming addition of a show-stealing tank. Keep your eyes on their Facebook for the upcoming reveal.

Final Word
Recent times have seen the Grim Reaper treat Żurawia without mercy. Can the Pink Lobster dodge the swipe of his scythe? On this showing, he might as well pack up the cape and find new territories to stalk – Żurawia has a keeper.

Pink Lobster
ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl