A grandiose setting but more attention needed in the kitchen
However, when I strolled down the main drag, ulica Piotrkowska, my hopes soared when I spied Esplanada, a pre-war restaurant back after a 50-year hiatus. So I popped in to make a reservation for later that evening.
Between the wars Esplanada had been a fixture on Piotrkowska. Post war, owing to "specific historical circumstances," it was reduced to shoestore status and only reopened in April after a year-long renovation, which restored the Art Nouveau facade and turn-of-the-century interior.
The attention to detail is extensive, from the dark wood paneling and shiny brass railings to the blue and white checkerboard pattern of the floor tiles in the entry way. Above, a hanging chandelier highlights a red-carpeted grand staircase that leads to a balcony dining area. From there diners enjoy a sweeping view of the main floor and out through a wall-length picture window onto the Piotrkowska streetscape below.
While I got the reservation, it wasn't a simple affair, and the rough edge at the door was a clue of more to come. When I returned about 7 p.m., I realized my fears about securing a table were unfounded. I was seated straightaway at a table downstairs in front of the picture window.
It was a nice table except for passing pedestrians, who stopped to peer in the restaurant or make silly faces. Soon I felt like a display in a pet store window. I busied myself with the menu, which followed the turn-of-the-century theme, replete with vintage photographs of the restaurant from days past.
Appetizers included ocean-crab salad (zl. 12), marinated salmon (zl. 23), carpaccio with parmesan (zl. 18) or mozzarella cheese with tomatoes and basil (zl. 15). There were also mussels in garlic sauce (zl. 14), but when I saw fried, breaded Camembert served with cranberries (zl. 12) my choice was made.
The mains started off with the "Esplanada," a grilled steak served with pineapple (zl. 24). Then there was Bavarian escalop in house sauce (zl. 19) and Highlander (Gorale) schnitzel with capers. They also serve a chicken breast in marinara sauce and rokpol cheese (zl. 19), the Polish version of Roquefort. Esplanada also featured two set menus for zl. 25, basically ribs, either honey flavored or barbecued, and both served with potatoes. Rounding out the menu were sauteed trout with lemon and almonds (zl. 7 per 100 grams) and a mixed plate of grilled meat, Middle-Eastern style, called "Rumcajs Dinner."
I ordered the highlander schnitzel and a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon (zl. 6). The wine arrived quickly along with a basket of sliced bread and three kinds of spread: garlic butter, plain butter and cheese. The wine was characterless, flat, and weak.
My Camembert came, two wheels the size of tuna tins, enveloped in a golden brown crust. I carved out a wedge but was disappointed by the taste - basically a flat, round mozzarella stick. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but when the taste buds are all fired up for Camembert, it's a real letdown. The cranberries lacked tang. A very mediocre start.
I ordered another glass of weak wine to help ease into the next course. The schnitzel arrived, big as a record album. Quantity did not spell quality. It wasn't bad, just bland and dry.
I only finished half of the portion. Unfortunately, the waiter, who'd been very attentive, missed a beat. He should have seen the slab lying untouched, asked if everything was okay and kept the meal moving along. He didn't, and I, and the passersby, got too long a gander at a half-eaten meal.
Partially sated, I was in the mood for a small cup of ice cream to cleanse the palate. What I got was an arsenal, scoops piled high, like a display of cannon balls, and then topped with whipped cream, chocolate sauce, powdered sugar, coconut and a cast of fruits: watermelon, raspberries, plums, strawberries, melon, grapes, bananas, kiwi and oranges. Phew! Stick a couple of sparklers in that thing and you would've had a festival. Why, in a restaurant, are they bowling me over with an end-of-the-meal item?
I ordered a shot of Siwucha (zl. 6), the Bentley of Polish vodkas, for digestion, and a coffee to get my legs for the exit. The vodka came as it should, ice cold.
Esplanada has the potential to be one of the best restaurants in lodz. But facing little competition, it needs to set its own standards and move the attention to detail into the kitchen. I can't, however, complain too much about the bill, zl. 64 ($18.28) for one.
Esplanada
ul. Piotrkowska 100, lodz
(42) 630 5989
Open 11 a.m. - Midnight (until 1 a.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday)
Between the wars Esplanada had been a fixture on Piotrkowska. Post war, owing to "specific historical circumstances," it was reduced to shoestore status and only reopened in April after a year-long renovation, which restored the Art Nouveau facade and turn-of-the-century interior.
The attention to detail is extensive, from the dark wood paneling and shiny brass railings to the blue and white checkerboard pattern of the floor tiles in the entry way. Above, a hanging chandelier highlights a red-carpeted grand staircase that leads to a balcony dining area. From there diners enjoy a sweeping view of the main floor and out through a wall-length picture window onto the Piotrkowska streetscape below.
While I got the reservation, it wasn't a simple affair, and the rough edge at the door was a clue of more to come. When I returned about 7 p.m., I realized my fears about securing a table were unfounded. I was seated straightaway at a table downstairs in front of the picture window.
It was a nice table except for passing pedestrians, who stopped to peer in the restaurant or make silly faces. Soon I felt like a display in a pet store window. I busied myself with the menu, which followed the turn-of-the-century theme, replete with vintage photographs of the restaurant from days past.
Appetizers included ocean-crab salad (zl. 12), marinated salmon (zl. 23), carpaccio with parmesan (zl. 18) or mozzarella cheese with tomatoes and basil (zl. 15). There were also mussels in garlic sauce (zl. 14), but when I saw fried, breaded Camembert served with cranberries (zl. 12) my choice was made.
The mains started off with the "Esplanada," a grilled steak served with pineapple (zl. 24). Then there was Bavarian escalop in house sauce (zl. 19) and Highlander (Gorale) schnitzel with capers. They also serve a chicken breast in marinara sauce and rokpol cheese (zl. 19), the Polish version of Roquefort. Esplanada also featured two set menus for zl. 25, basically ribs, either honey flavored or barbecued, and both served with potatoes. Rounding out the menu were sauteed trout with lemon and almonds (zl. 7 per 100 grams) and a mixed plate of grilled meat, Middle-Eastern style, called "Rumcajs Dinner."
I ordered the highlander schnitzel and a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon (zl. 6). The wine arrived quickly along with a basket of sliced bread and three kinds of spread: garlic butter, plain butter and cheese. The wine was characterless, flat, and weak.
My Camembert came, two wheels the size of tuna tins, enveloped in a golden brown crust. I carved out a wedge but was disappointed by the taste - basically a flat, round mozzarella stick. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but when the taste buds are all fired up for Camembert, it's a real letdown. The cranberries lacked tang. A very mediocre start.
I ordered another glass of weak wine to help ease into the next course. The schnitzel arrived, big as a record album. Quantity did not spell quality. It wasn't bad, just bland and dry.
I only finished half of the portion. Unfortunately, the waiter, who'd been very attentive, missed a beat. He should have seen the slab lying untouched, asked if everything was okay and kept the meal moving along. He didn't, and I, and the passersby, got too long a gander at a half-eaten meal.
Partially sated, I was in the mood for a small cup of ice cream to cleanse the palate. What I got was an arsenal, scoops piled high, like a display of cannon balls, and then topped with whipped cream, chocolate sauce, powdered sugar, coconut and a cast of fruits: watermelon, raspberries, plums, strawberries, melon, grapes, bananas, kiwi and oranges. Phew! Stick a couple of sparklers in that thing and you would've had a festival. Why, in a restaurant, are they bowling me over with an end-of-the-meal item?
I ordered a shot of Siwucha (zl. 6), the Bentley of Polish vodkas, for digestion, and a coffee to get my legs for the exit. The vodka came as it should, ice cold.
Esplanada has the potential to be one of the best restaurants in lodz. But facing little competition, it needs to set its own standards and move the attention to detail into the kitchen. I can't, however, complain too much about the bill, zl. 64 ($18.28) for one.
Esplanada
ul. Piotrkowska 100, lodz
(42) 630 5989
Open 11 a.m. - Midnight (until 1 a.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday)
