Add Dyspensa to the list of Warsaw's world-class restaurants
By : Will Sartori
Kitty and I thought it was time to check out a new dining establishment, Dyspensa, rumored to sell exquisite fare at exquisitely expensive prices and in exquisitely small portions.
This could explain why there were tables going spare even though we arrived at culinary prime time. But if the place lacked clientele, it made up for it in atmosphere. It was a cavern of serenity, painted in somber shades of green with wood beams, shelves of bottles and paintings. "The colors are so calm," Kitty said. "You can really relax in here." And relax we certainly did.
Dyspensa has that comfy kind of feeling where time slides to a halt and the outside city vanishes. The sultry tones of Sade filled the half-vacant room. "It's a very romantic place," Kitty said.
The host was genial and obviously perceptive, giving me an English menu and Kitty a Polish one. The menu is weighty enough to promise diversity without the biblical bulk you sometimes find elsewhere. Salads ranged from zl. 26-zl. 29, starters zl. 12-zl. 30, and soups zl. 12-zl. 18. Pastas cost zl. 25-zl. 30, while main dishes of fish, meat and poultry ranged from zl. 43-zl. 53. Desserts are zl. 14-zl. 19. And that immediately dispels one of the rumors about this place. Yes, it is upscale, but it's not that expensive.
We asked for the wine list, which was divided into red, white and a special classified section. Reds ranged from zl. 68 for a valpolicella, the Chateau le Coteau, to zl. 330 for Cru Bourgois '96. Whites started at zl. 72 for a Muscadet Chateau de Rochefort '98 and topped out at zl. 215 for Pascal Jolivet Pouilly Fume '98. Classified wines reached up to zl. 3,500 for Chateau Margaux Premier Grand Cru Classe '83. The sole entry under champagnes is Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin at zl. 395 a bottle and zl. 200 for a half. House wines in red, white and rose are zl. 85 a bottle and zl. 14 a glass.
We chose a Chilean cabernet sauvignon, the Terra Monte '98 (zl. 97).
The wine itself was slightly green and could have used a couple of more years in the cellar, but it grew spicy and very pleasant once it had a chance to breathe. It was not a heavy or dark cabernet and made a wonderful compliment to the carpaccio (zl. 26) I started with.
I was curious about their carpaccio because the menu said it came with European corn salad and I was interested to see this variation from the standard. But the European component turned out to be a mystery green that accompanied the usual cast of characters. It was good, but no revelation. Here, Dyspensa lived down to its reputation; it was a small carpaccio.
On the other side of the table, Kitty was in ecstasy over her avocado and crayfish salad (zl. 27). Her lettuce was mixed with the same mystery green that graced my carpaccio, and was topped with pieces of crayfish and large chunks of juicy, ripe avocado that slid across the tongue. The simple surprise in this salad came from the light touches of dill and white pepper, which turned the cream dressing into something altogether different. "That was out of this world," Kitty purred.
She was equally happy with the chicken in chanterelle sauce (zl. 43). The bird came with a side of new potatoes sprinkled in dill while the plate was dusted with parsley. But what really sold her, she said, was the cream sauce and "amazing mushrooms, little ones, but tasty."
My veal (zl. 49) also had a magnificent sauce, this time with apple and basil. I had less veal than apple on my plate and I have certainly had more tender veal, but the sauce was amazing. To take a sliver of apple and let the fruit, meat and warm, creamy basil sauce blend in the mouth was an experience I savored. I took my time.
As I'd heard that Dyspensa had a reputation for small portions, I ordered a side of steamed vegetables (zl. 7). As it turned out, this was unnecessary because both meals came with adequate portions of buttered steamed cauliflower, broccoli, carrots and string beans. They were perfectly cooked and it was a relief to see that Dyspensa does the small things well too.
For dessert, I chose a daily special and forgot to ask the price. The seasonal fresh fruits in vanilla sauce cost zl. 38. I don't see how they arrived at that price, which is twice as much as the most expensive dessert on the menu. Generous amounts of strawberries, Polish blueberries, American blueberries, raspberries and blackberries sat in a pool of vanilla sauce. Kitty had tiramisu (zl. 16) and by the look of her wide, Cheshire-cat smile, I knew the sweet was worth it.
Dinner for two with wine, coffee and dessert came to zl. 323 ($75). Dyspensa is expensive, yes, but I have certainly paid more for lesser meals. With the arrival this year of Kuznia Smaku, Restauracja Biblioteka and now Dyspensa, Warsaw finally has restaurants worthy of a European capital. Restauracja 99 seems poised to be toppled from its long-held position of best in town the point from which all other eateries were previously judged. Dyspensa is the most romantic of these new additions. The service was excellent, polite and attentive throughout the meal. Its reputation for small portions is exaggerated, and the food is indeed exquisite.
