Atmospheric Russian restaurant delivers quality food
I had heard that Szampanska (ul. Marszalkowska 104) was a cheap and interesting new Russian eatery. When we arrived there, however, we found only a dark dining room behind a locked door. Had the trouble with the rouble already killed the place? Who knows. Rather annoyed and very hungry, we took a taxi over to Warsaw's other new Russian restaurant, Caryca Katarzyna. I was curious about what was now in the space that used to house the American-style restaurant Malibu.
We were greeted by five gentlemen in white gloves and formal, cream-colored serving jackets with gold buttons. Then we noticed the room. Everything was done in a deep, blood red. Fitting for a place named after a czarina, I thought. She would have been proud. The place was very posh.
"It's red on red on red," said Kiki, "and I love the velvet drapes. Very elegant."
At a table too large for two people, we settled into the near-empty dining room. Red candles stood burning in a rose-print holder, the waiter placed napkins on our laps, and, in a corner, soulful music was being played by two Russians with an accordion and a guitar. I thought they would be happier because they weren't in Moscow.
I began with the wine list and was a bit taken aback by the prices. The range for the mostly French selection was zl. 84-zl. 2,148 with most bottles priced around zl. 200. Not in the mood to lay out a lot for a fancy vintage, we ordered a simple bottle of Côte du Rhone (zl. 84) that was dry and very drinkable.
The food menu was also a bit pricey but not completely outrageous.
The starter list began with red or black caviar (zl. 46-zl. 98) and included such dishes as herring, Odessa style (zl. 25) or Uzbekistan style (zl. 22). There was also a hot salmon dish (zl. 45), beef stroganoff and four soups (zl. 18-zl. 24).
There are 14 main courses (zl. 65-zl. 108) featuring beef, veal, lamb, boar and fish described with Russian names such as "lamb Cossack style." At the waiter's recommendation, I chose "catfish baked-in-Moscow style" (zl. 108), after Russian "Solanka" soup (zl. 21). Kiki went for the "Slav style" roast pork (zl. 65).
Our waiter was professional and very knowledgeable about every detail concerning his job and the food. And he had the wonderful ability to be invisible but on top of his job at the same time. He delivered some caviar on toast that was a great touch instead of the usual bread. What a perfect excuse to order a shot of Moscow vodka (zl. 9) before the meal to mellow out the fish eggs.
In good time, my soup arrived. It was a hearty orange broth full of pork, onions, olives and pickles. It looked great steaming in a high bowl and tasted even better with the tangy pickles standing out nicely.
The main courses were delivered in grand style soon after. A silver dome cover was removed to present Kiki with her pork. We both enjoyed the pickles which were sliced into the shape of hearts.
My catfish was a massive dish of layered flavors. On top of the fish was a sliced boiled egg covered with mild white cheese and baked with thick wedges of potato. All over it was a savory brown sauce that somehow worked well with the white fish. It was an excellent main, which I couldn't finish.
Kiki was impressed with her meal as well. Her pork was a clean and tender roast that fell off the bone and satisfied her taste buds.
On the dessert page, the menu tells you to "forget your calories for once." So, Kiki did and had the ice cream with chocolate sauce (zl. 15). It was quite acceptable and pleased her. I enjoyed a vodka-laced java called "Coffee Petroff" (zl. 18).
When the meal was finished, the gracious waiter presented Kiki with a long-stem rose and me with the bill. The amount: zl. 356 ($96). While I was very impressed with the rose for the lady, I didn't like the surprise service charge of zl. 33 added to the bill. The menu states that VAT is included. It should also inform the diner about the service charge.
Overall, it was an excellent meal in a grand, old-Russian setting. I felt it was worth the money. It is nice to be pampered sometimes. Prices are a bit on the high end, but Caryca Katarzyna delivers quality. And prices are still better than what you would see in Moscow these days.
We were greeted by five gentlemen in white gloves and formal, cream-colored serving jackets with gold buttons. Then we noticed the room. Everything was done in a deep, blood red. Fitting for a place named after a czarina, I thought. She would have been proud. The place was very posh.
"It's red on red on red," said Kiki, "and I love the velvet drapes. Very elegant."
At a table too large for two people, we settled into the near-empty dining room. Red candles stood burning in a rose-print holder, the waiter placed napkins on our laps, and, in a corner, soulful music was being played by two Russians with an accordion and a guitar. I thought they would be happier because they weren't in Moscow.
I began with the wine list and was a bit taken aback by the prices. The range for the mostly French selection was zl. 84-zl. 2,148 with most bottles priced around zl. 200. Not in the mood to lay out a lot for a fancy vintage, we ordered a simple bottle of Côte du Rhone (zl. 84) that was dry and very drinkable.
The food menu was also a bit pricey but not completely outrageous.
The starter list began with red or black caviar (zl. 46-zl. 98) and included such dishes as herring, Odessa style (zl. 25) or Uzbekistan style (zl. 22). There was also a hot salmon dish (zl. 45), beef stroganoff and four soups (zl. 18-zl. 24).
There are 14 main courses (zl. 65-zl. 108) featuring beef, veal, lamb, boar and fish described with Russian names such as "lamb Cossack style." At the waiter's recommendation, I chose "catfish baked-in-Moscow style" (zl. 108), after Russian "Solanka" soup (zl. 21). Kiki went for the "Slav style" roast pork (zl. 65).
Our waiter was professional and very knowledgeable about every detail concerning his job and the food. And he had the wonderful ability to be invisible but on top of his job at the same time. He delivered some caviar on toast that was a great touch instead of the usual bread. What a perfect excuse to order a shot of Moscow vodka (zl. 9) before the meal to mellow out the fish eggs.
In good time, my soup arrived. It was a hearty orange broth full of pork, onions, olives and pickles. It looked great steaming in a high bowl and tasted even better with the tangy pickles standing out nicely.
The main courses were delivered in grand style soon after. A silver dome cover was removed to present Kiki with her pork. We both enjoyed the pickles which were sliced into the shape of hearts.
My catfish was a massive dish of layered flavors. On top of the fish was a sliced boiled egg covered with mild white cheese and baked with thick wedges of potato. All over it was a savory brown sauce that somehow worked well with the white fish. It was an excellent main, which I couldn't finish.
Kiki was impressed with her meal as well. Her pork was a clean and tender roast that fell off the bone and satisfied her taste buds.
On the dessert page, the menu tells you to "forget your calories for once." So, Kiki did and had the ice cream with chocolate sauce (zl. 15). It was quite acceptable and pleased her. I enjoyed a vodka-laced java called "Coffee Petroff" (zl. 18).
When the meal was finished, the gracious waiter presented Kiki with a long-stem rose and me with the bill. The amount: zl. 356 ($96). While I was very impressed with the rose for the lady, I didn't like the surprise service charge of zl. 33 added to the bill. The menu states that VAT is included. It should also inform the diner about the service charge.
Overall, it was an excellent meal in a grand, old-Russian setting. I felt it was worth the money. It is nice to be pampered sometimes. Prices are a bit on the high end, but Caryca Katarzyna delivers quality. And prices are still better than what you would see in Moscow these days.
