Downtrodden and dateless
By : Celia Barnes
U Hopfera
ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiescie 53
Tel. 828-7352
Hours: 11 a.m.-last guest
Credit cards and reservations accepted
Desperate - after a previously unsettling restaurant experience at Mehana Gradina (../common/article.asp?id=121389&site=2), and dateless - David just won't eat one more pierogi, I shanghaied my colleagues Robert and Mariusz into making a lunchtime pitstop at Warsaw's pierogi palace, U Hopfera.
U Hopfera, which was opened by a Mr. Hopfer sometime in the 19th century, gets a mention in the classic Polish novel Lalka, and underwent a bit of a sprucing up in 1999. It is now sporting the new millennium subtitle of "Pierogi Swiata" (or pierogi of the world), and a logo so colorful, it appears to elevate the humble dumpling to fast-food status. The inside of the restaurant couldn't be further from the genre it's all dark timber, deep apricot walls and brass light fixtures.
There are 22 different pierogi on the menu, plus eight mixed plates of 10 dumplings each. Everything from fillings of pork knuckle, to cheese, black-ear mushrooms, blue cheese and lentils, wrapped in dough. And if that isn't enough, there are dessert pierogi too. The restaurant sells around 700-1,000 pierogi a day and one customer holds the record for eating 86 pierogi in one sitting.
Pierogi are a topic close to the heart of every Pole mainly because every Pole thinks that their mum's pierogi are the best. Robert and Mariusz are a case in point, both gave glowing reports of their mums' pierogi.
After ordering a "traditional" mixed plate, Robert said, "I hope they don't pour lard over them." lard being the traditional condiment for pierogi. "My mum does it, but I like my mum's pierogi. I really like them grilled, not boiled, and I sometimes ask mum to use vegetable oil instead."
Mariusz ordered a mixed plate of mushroom pierogi. The two plates came with the ubiquitous sauerkraut and salad and, of course, the pierogi: mysterious-looking little dumplings in shades of buckwheat, spinach, pumpkin and even poppy seed-speckled dough.
The consensus view was summed up by Mariusz, who said, "They taste like pierogi." Thankfully they were light on hot lard, but the tasty fillings were let down by dough that was a little on the stodgy side.
The mixed dessert plate with such innovations as banana and coconut, chocolate, and berries came dressed with hot custard. They were a nice little sweet treat to finish off with.
I asked Robert if he had a craving for a pierogi, would he come to U Hopfera?
"I can only have cravings for my mum's pierogi," was his diplomatic answer.
But don't fret, if you're not after pierogi, U Hopfera has a regular menu of all your hearty Polish favorites, borscht, golonka and roast bison.
Lunch for two at U Hopfera came to zl. 74 ($18.50).
On the menu:
Mixed traditional pierogis zl. 20
Mixed mushroom pierogis zl.23
Mixed dessert pierogis zl.19
Roast bison zl.38
Wiener schnitzel zl.36
