Friendly service gives Kahlenberg warm feel
Nothing like a slow, lingering lunch to forget about the annoying everyday details for a while. Treat yourself to some food and a tall glass of something strong, and your troubles will melt away.
The spot where I went to unwind the other day was an odd choice simply because it was an Austrian restaurant. Now, Austria has never been know for its lazy, laid-back or carefree attitude.
Maybe a Spanish cafe would have been a better idea. But I was curious about Restauracja Kahlenberg (ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 630-8850). Any place with a name that sounds like a new German beer sparks my interest.
I arrived at a perfect time for relaxing. It was 3:30 p.m., and the last of the lunch crowd were sipping their coffees. The dinner crowd was hours away. I pretty much had the place, and the staff, to myself.
A young, clean-cut waiter took my coat and offered me a small table next to one of the many high windows draped in white curtains. I was happy I was in the front dining room near the bar, which had faded pink walls, 6-foot tall plants and red, velvet-like tablecloths.
While formal and stark with everything designed in straight lines, it was much warmer than the neighboring dining room with its socialist yellow-and-brown trimming. Music from a Tom Jones compact disc permeated both rooms.
I ordered a large Heineken and sank into a chair in the red room. The zl. 14 price tag for a half-liter of draught was a bit high, but the beer was cold and good. A small (0.33) bottle of Zywiec runs you zl. 7.
Feeling better already, I opened the menu to find the chef's recommendations on certain Varsovian and Viennese dishes. These aren't specials, only what the chef really likes from the regular menu. Going though the pages, I discovered that Kahlenberg is as much a Polish restaurant as it is Austrian. The chef recommends flaki (zl. 12) and the "Polish beef roll in bread" (zl. 39) as well as "beef tongue Viennese style" (zl. 18) and hot apple strudel (zl. 14).
I almost started with a soup because of the chill outside. There were five to choose from, including forest mushroom soup (zl. 18) and "tomato cream with Parmesan cheese" (zl. 12). But I opted for a starter instead. The "giblets liver with apples and cranberries" (zl. 17) and the Russian dumplings (zl. 14) didn't grab me. But the leeks in puff pastry sounded like a pleasant change.
There are also six different salads (zl. 17-zl. 30) to pick from if you desire a lighter start. Or if you are in a fishy mood, the cold appetizers include herring (zl. 11) and smoked salmon (zl. 30).
I only gave the red meat dishes (zl. 22-zl. 43) a quick glance. They were mostly beef and pork prepared in local traditional styles. I thought about the lamb roasted in juniper (zl. 30) but soon moved on to the four kinds of fish on offer (zl. 33-zl. 41). Baked trout in herbs (zl. 33) was an easy choice for me.
The poultry section is simple. There is "duck on oranges in Gran Marnier" (zl. 43) or chicken in three types of cheese (zl. 38).
The beer had achieved the desired trick of easing me into lunch. But wine was needed for the meal itself. Throwing etiquette rules out the window, I knew I wanted red wine even though I was having fish. Forget the rules, drink what you feel like.
My efficient waiter promptly took my food order and delivered a wine list with great speed. He was a formal chap but pleasant enough to do business with. He answered any question I had. There was never a dirty ashtray on my table and his serving style was only professional. I think I even saw him smile once.
In a city where good service is a luxury instead of the norm, Kahlenberg treats the customer like a lord. It is worth a visit for the attention alone.
The wine list he brought me covered most countries with grapes. At the low end was Sofia (zl. 37.50). The rest of the menu included France's Bordeaux region, Spain, Italy, Germany, Austria and the United States (zl.50-zl. 200). I was happy to find a half bottle of Torres Sangre de Toro (zl. 42) listed. A dry, full-bodied red with a hint of fruit would be perfect. And it was. I even got a prize with the bottle - a small plastic bull dangling from a ribbon.
While waiting for my food, I turned to my dining companion, the International Herald Tribune. It was perfect company for the meal I desired. Everything from the comics to the opinion page was delightful. I even forgot about Tom Jones for a while.
My starter arrived, and I was a little dismayed by what I saw. When I think of puffed pastries, I think of something, well, puffed. On the plate before me were three strips of leeks in a bit of batter. While they didn't look right, they certainly tasted fine. They could have been hotter, but the frying mellowed the leek flavor perfectly. The oregano-laced tomato sauce served with it worked well.
The wait between courses was healthy, just short of a delay. I was more than ready to cut into my fish when it arrived. It was an entire fish, a good nine inches, with a half an olive as a fake eye. The entire plate was traditional Continental in presentation but well done with carrots, peas, boiled potatoes and some corn. The carrots were grilled and bursting with natural flavor. The potatoes were properly cooked but cold.
The trout was a bit dry, though flaky and easy to take off the bone. It was stuffed with a mixture of carrot shreds and onions spiced with oregano and basil. The mixture enhanced the mild taste of the fish.
All in all, it was a good main dish that left me more than satisfied.
Too full for a sweet, I went for an Irish coffee (zl. 14). They did well with the whiskey and fresh whipped cream, but I believe the coffee was at fault for giving it a chocolate flavor. It was far from perfect.
Overall, Kahlenberg offers a pleasant dining experience. The bill came to zl. 141 ($40.29) for one. The food was fine, and I felt well looked-after by the staff, and I walked away from the restaurant more relaxed. I plan to return, hopefully with a date, to get the full dining experience of crowds and candles. I just hope that by then, Kahlenberg has a decent coffee maker and bought another compact disc to replace Tom Jones's greatest hits.
The spot where I went to unwind the other day was an odd choice simply because it was an Austrian restaurant. Now, Austria has never been know for its lazy, laid-back or carefree attitude.
Maybe a Spanish cafe would have been a better idea. But I was curious about Restauracja Kahlenberg (ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 630-8850). Any place with a name that sounds like a new German beer sparks my interest.
I arrived at a perfect time for relaxing. It was 3:30 p.m., and the last of the lunch crowd were sipping their coffees. The dinner crowd was hours away. I pretty much had the place, and the staff, to myself.
A young, clean-cut waiter took my coat and offered me a small table next to one of the many high windows draped in white curtains. I was happy I was in the front dining room near the bar, which had faded pink walls, 6-foot tall plants and red, velvet-like tablecloths.
While formal and stark with everything designed in straight lines, it was much warmer than the neighboring dining room with its socialist yellow-and-brown trimming. Music from a Tom Jones compact disc permeated both rooms.
I ordered a large Heineken and sank into a chair in the red room. The zl. 14 price tag for a half-liter of draught was a bit high, but the beer was cold and good. A small (0.33) bottle of Zywiec runs you zl. 7.
Feeling better already, I opened the menu to find the chef's recommendations on certain Varsovian and Viennese dishes. These aren't specials, only what the chef really likes from the regular menu. Going though the pages, I discovered that Kahlenberg is as much a Polish restaurant as it is Austrian. The chef recommends flaki (zl. 12) and the "Polish beef roll in bread" (zl. 39) as well as "beef tongue Viennese style" (zl. 18) and hot apple strudel (zl. 14).
I almost started with a soup because of the chill outside. There were five to choose from, including forest mushroom soup (zl. 18) and "tomato cream with Parmesan cheese" (zl. 12). But I opted for a starter instead. The "giblets liver with apples and cranberries" (zl. 17) and the Russian dumplings (zl. 14) didn't grab me. But the leeks in puff pastry sounded like a pleasant change.
There are also six different salads (zl. 17-zl. 30) to pick from if you desire a lighter start. Or if you are in a fishy mood, the cold appetizers include herring (zl. 11) and smoked salmon (zl. 30).
I only gave the red meat dishes (zl. 22-zl. 43) a quick glance. They were mostly beef and pork prepared in local traditional styles. I thought about the lamb roasted in juniper (zl. 30) but soon moved on to the four kinds of fish on offer (zl. 33-zl. 41). Baked trout in herbs (zl. 33) was an easy choice for me.
The poultry section is simple. There is "duck on oranges in Gran Marnier" (zl. 43) or chicken in three types of cheese (zl. 38).
The beer had achieved the desired trick of easing me into lunch. But wine was needed for the meal itself. Throwing etiquette rules out the window, I knew I wanted red wine even though I was having fish. Forget the rules, drink what you feel like.
My efficient waiter promptly took my food order and delivered a wine list with great speed. He was a formal chap but pleasant enough to do business with. He answered any question I had. There was never a dirty ashtray on my table and his serving style was only professional. I think I even saw him smile once.
In a city where good service is a luxury instead of the norm, Kahlenberg treats the customer like a lord. It is worth a visit for the attention alone.
The wine list he brought me covered most countries with grapes. At the low end was Sofia (zl. 37.50). The rest of the menu included France's Bordeaux region, Spain, Italy, Germany, Austria and the United States (zl.50-zl. 200). I was happy to find a half bottle of Torres Sangre de Toro (zl. 42) listed. A dry, full-bodied red with a hint of fruit would be perfect. And it was. I even got a prize with the bottle - a small plastic bull dangling from a ribbon.
While waiting for my food, I turned to my dining companion, the International Herald Tribune. It was perfect company for the meal I desired. Everything from the comics to the opinion page was delightful. I even forgot about Tom Jones for a while.
My starter arrived, and I was a little dismayed by what I saw. When I think of puffed pastries, I think of something, well, puffed. On the plate before me were three strips of leeks in a bit of batter. While they didn't look right, they certainly tasted fine. They could have been hotter, but the frying mellowed the leek flavor perfectly. The oregano-laced tomato sauce served with it worked well.
The wait between courses was healthy, just short of a delay. I was more than ready to cut into my fish when it arrived. It was an entire fish, a good nine inches, with a half an olive as a fake eye. The entire plate was traditional Continental in presentation but well done with carrots, peas, boiled potatoes and some corn. The carrots were grilled and bursting with natural flavor. The potatoes were properly cooked but cold.
The trout was a bit dry, though flaky and easy to take off the bone. It was stuffed with a mixture of carrot shreds and onions spiced with oregano and basil. The mixture enhanced the mild taste of the fish.
All in all, it was a good main dish that left me more than satisfied.
Too full for a sweet, I went for an Irish coffee (zl. 14). They did well with the whiskey and fresh whipped cream, but I believe the coffee was at fault for giving it a chocolate flavor. It was far from perfect.
Overall, Kahlenberg offers a pleasant dining experience. The bill came to zl. 141 ($40.29) for one. The food was fine, and I felt well looked-after by the staff, and I walked away from the restaurant more relaxed. I plan to return, hopefully with a date, to get the full dining experience of crowds and candles. I just hope that by then, Kahlenberg has a decent coffee maker and bought another compact disc to replace Tom Jones's greatest hits.
