Restaurant at the center of the universe
CopernicusHotel CopernicusUl. Kanonicza 16Kraków
Hours: Noon-11 p.m.
Tel. (012) 431-1044
Reservations and credit cards accepted
Is it possible that the humble bajgiel (bagel) could be Poland's most reliable economic indicator?
Last year, a bajgiel in Warsaw increased from zl. 1 to zl. 1.20. While in Krakow, the going rate was a steady zl. .70 to zl. .80 at some bargain basement stalls! Seeking to test my economic theory, I recently visited Krakow and, with sesame bajgiel in hand, I wandered the streets of the stunning Old Town.
My completely unreliable results are: The hotels are cheaper, the taxis are cheaper, even the amber is cheaper. And foodaphiles rejoice, the restaurants are cheaper too.
But of course, there are some exceptions, and Copernicus is one of them.
Just a bajgiel's toss from the fortified ramparts of Wawel Castle, Copernicus is hidden away in a corner of Hotel Copernicus. The inspiration of this eponymous outburst is Nicolaus Copernicus or Mikolaj Kopernik in his native tongue.
Copernicus was a rather successful student of the Cracovian educational system way back in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. He came up with the crazy idea that the earth revolved around the sun. Suffice to say his contemporaries including the Catholic Church all believed the opposite and considered this absurd. Copernicus refused to publish his theory until late in his life. Legend has it that he finally received a copy of it on the day he died in 1543.
If only Copernicus were alive today to see his ideas adopted as fact, he'd probably book a celebratory dinner at Copernicus. After all, that's the kind of place it is. Haute cuisine at its best, with spotless table service and the atmosphere of a 16th century dining room would have made him feel right at home.
Opened in April 2000, Copernicus is housed in a renovated Renaissance building with a glass atrium covering the courtyard. The walls throughout the building are decorated with original frescoes some dating from 1500. A sumptuous underground swimming pool is somehow reminiscent of a reformation torture chamber ... only much, much more glamorous, and with mood lighting that would make even Homer Simpson look sexy in his swimming togs.
The petitely proportioned restaurant has a downstairs area with a flagstone floor, and an upstairs balcony that is great for crowd watching. You also get a better look at its beautiful recessed wooden ceiling.
Before our starters arrived and after we'd perused the extensive wine list, our attentive waiter brought us a complimentary dish from the chef: three little frog legs each, paddling on the edge of a butter and garlic sauce pond. It's a strange feeling nibbling on an amphibian's anklebone, but it was a tasty morsel that whet the appetite for what was to follow.
My tender duck fillets were divine. Topped with a soft poached egg, forest mushrooms and crisp bacon, they almost melted in my mouth. David's supremely tasty duck ragout came wrapped in a large sheet of pasta, pinned with a sprig of fresh rosemary.
With starters so delectable, I knew that our main dishes would have to be just as good.
David's sophisticated version of the mixed grill three perfect portions of quail, hare and deer was a triumph. Served with fresh red current jelly, the meat was lightly cooked and tender.
"I think this is the best restaurant I've been to in Warsaw," said David as he savored his first mouthful. I politely reminded him that we were actually in Krakow, and I couldn't help but agree with him as I tried my petite fillets of deer wrapped in bacon.
Without a glimmer of guilt or a single thought of Bambi, I have to say it was fabulous. It came with homemade pierogi filled with sauerkraut and juniper berries. And it would have been perfect except for the slightly undercooked pierogi dough a small whine I know.
Both the mains were accompanied by a dish of vegetables including a spinach custard so delicate, it quivered on the plate.
The first-class treatment extended to the desserts, which were just as tasty on the eye as on the tastebuds: chilled nut halva and a hot chocolate souffle.
My halva was part ice cream, part OTT fashion statement with chocolate sheets printed with musical notes and a whimsy of spun sugar. Sadly it sat atop a rather sour slice of mango, but in the name of food as art, such minor faults are excusable.
David's hot souffle, served with hot chestnuts, glistening pomegranate seeds and strawberry coulis (phew) was so luscious, it was sinful.
It was the finishing note to a dinner that was a performance as much as it was a meal. Not the sort of thing you'd like to eat every week maybe just once a year to celebrate the birthday of Copernicus on Feb. 19.
Dinner for two came to zl. 242 ($57) without drinks.
From the menu:
Duck fillets, poached egg, bacon and forest mushrooms as salad zl.29
Duck ragout atop colorful pasta
zl.29
Colorful pumpkin cream soup with stuffed vegetables
zl.25
Quail, hare and deer meats served on one platezl.65
Deer wrapped in bacon, with tasty pierogizl.65
Sea perch with herbs roasted in salt zl.69
Crown of hare surrounded by browned celeriac in black pepper saucezl.79
Hot soufflé of chocolate and hazelnuts decorated with chestnutszl.25
Chilled nut halva with dried fruit served on mango sliceszl.29
