Tłusta Gęś: Redefining Polish cuisine, one fat goose at a time

By Vedika Luthra Stereotyped as heavy, starchy and fat-rich, the traditional Central European diet appeals to only a small minority. And in light of today’s modern, health-conscious eating habits, this potato-and-meat laden cuisine is in need of a slight makeover, one that Tłusta Gęś, is no doubt, ready to provide. Do not be deceived by its name (The Fat Goose, in English), which conjures up images which exactly fulfill the stereotype. From an opening on ul. Koszykowa, Tłusta Gęś beckons. You can peer inside through one of the windows, giving a view to a small bar, several tables and a stream of lights hanging from the ceiling. Subtle music plays in the background, and the atmosphere is warm and inviting. The restaurant is a good choice for an undisturbed, pleasant lunch or dinner.   [caption id="attachment_85316" align="alignleft" width="300"] Image: Tłusta Gęś[/caption] When we settled down, the waiter immediately brought out a bread basket and Polish pickles: a winner in my book already. While theoretically I should have ordered goose, I was keen to try the duck served with baked apples, beetroot slaw, cranberry sauce and gnocchi, a traditional Polish dish to which they had added a slight twist. The wait was not too long, but long enough to imply that the chef was preparing the meal from scratch. Regardless, it was worth it. Not only was the portion more than generous for a single serving, but the dish tasted as good as it looked. Duck is not easy to prepare. But obviously, the chef knew what he was doing. The exterior was crisp and the bird was perfectly cooked. I was most surprised by how pleasant the sweet and savory combination of soft baked apples, slightly sour cranberry sauce and poultry was. The pairing of gnocchi was an interesting addition, though I preferred the side of potato gratin that was served to my companion. Gnocchi simply cannot compete with layers of egg-and-cheese covered potatoes. I wasn’t so eager to order a dessert, as the meal was filling enough. However, sugary creations happen to be my weakness and I gave in at thought of a warm chocolate soufflé. While satisfying, the soufflé didn’t reach the heights of the main course by quite a distance. Perhaps their roasted butter apple pie is better, something I will have to keep in mind for my next visit. And obviously, there will be next visit.